I strive to breed only the best rats. Pairs will be carefully selected so only the best traits will be passed along to future generations. Often I choose my pairs months in advance, sometimes starting even before babies are born. Health and temperament are always top priorities and no rat will ever be bred unless they possess these two qualities. I do show my rats on occasion, but show potential is not the only determining factor when choosing my pairs. Even a rat with perfect conformation and the potential to be the next multi-grand champion show winner will not be bred unless its health and temperament are excellent and without flaw. Type is the next highest priority and all pairs will complement each other so as to correct any flaws, no matter how minor, while still preserving the good traits. My standards are high and I keep records on all my animals. I am not afraid to discontinue a breeding line if it proves to be unfit for one reason or another. I do not expect perfection in one or even a few generations, but do expect to progress with each step along the way. The best rats will only come out of many generations of careful selective breeding. Any animal not fit for show or breeding will be placed as a pet only.

I am strongly against culling defined as killing the "unwanted" or "unworthy" babies, and refuse to work with any breeder who supports this awful act. As a breeder I am responsible for bringing these rats into life, and for that reason must take responsibility for the lives I have helped create. Every life is precious. If a rat is not show or breeding quality, it still deserves a happy, healthy life as a pet, and will be placed as such. I also believe that by killing the "unworthy" rats, a breeder loses valuable information on the health and temperament of their breeding lines. When a breeder kills off half a litter before the rats are even a year old, how can that breeder honestly say they breed healthy animals?

 I will only breed rats when I have a suitable pair available and the time, space, and money to care for the resulting babies. Although my animals are placed as pets, I do not breed to meet a demand. I do take waitlist reservations for future litters. If you want to be guaranteed a baby, I recommend you make your request as soon as possible. After a female is bred, she is housed with with the rest of her "colony" until about a week before she's due to give birth. At this time she is separated to a smaller nursery cage. I start handling the babies the day they are born, as long as the mother feels comfortable allowing me to do so. I start by simply sexing the babies and making sure every one is healthy. As they grow older I increase the amount of time they are handled. When the babies start leaving the nest I will reintroduce the mother's friend so that the babies have additional socializing with other rats and so the mother can have a bit of a break with the baby sitter in charge. At about five weeks of age I wean the males and place them with an older male baby sitter. The females are left with their mother and reintroduced to the rest of the colony. I keep all of my babies until they are six weeks of age for additional socializing and to finalize my pick. Babies are then placed with their new homes after six weeks of age.

All my rats are kept in large community cages. Currently I have a Martin's R-695, a Martin's R-699, and a smaller cage similar in size to the Martin's H-600HR with two partial floors in addition to the ground floor. As necessary I buy new cages to house additional animals. My rats are raised in a community setting with males and females housed separately. Most of my rats get along well and can live comfortably in a colony. Those rats who are older, special-need, or simply do not tolerate this set-up are separated to their own cage with a couple other friends. By raising my animals this way they are happy, well socialized, and never lonely.

In addition to their normal cages, my rats also have a play area. This play area is a three foot square table with a plastic wading pool set up with toys, hiding boxes, treats, and bedding and shredded paper. Co-existing groups of rats are brought out to play for hours at a time, until they tire and are returned to their cages. During this time I can play with and interact with the rats in different ways, and also observe their behavior and make sure all are healthy. The sides of the plastic pool are deep enough young babies cannot get out, nor fall off the table. I can feel safe and confident bringing out an entire litter of babies for socializing time without worrying about watching every single baby simultaneously to make sure they do not get hurt.

Currently my rats are being housed on "Coco-Rat" bedding. This bedding is made from ground coconut husks and is dust-free, contains no aromatic oils or parasites, and is extremely absorbent of odor and moisture. It can be purchased through Black Wolf Rattery. My rats are also litter-trained, which helps to keep their cages that much cleaner and more sanitary. Litter boxes and cages are spot-checked daily, removing soiled portions. Cages are emptied, scrubbed, and disinfected weekly. I often give my rats shredded paper for extra bedding. My rats have several toys, including jingle balls, hammocks, and perches to climb on. Although my rats do not always take advantage of these toys, I want to ensure my rats are healthy and happy, including mental health and happiness. I regularly add new toys to keep my rats entertained and ensure they have plenty of stimulation. My animals are handled daily to ensure they are friendly and people-oriented. My rats are also exposed to normal house-hold noises such as vacuum cleaners, televisions, radios, and so on, further ensuring their easy transition into new homes.

I currently have three cats and a dog, each of which has been socialized and trained to accept the rats as part of the family pack. In fact my dog, Noah, dotes over the rats as if they were his own babies! My rats are exposed to the scents of these animals from birth, and are introduced in a very controlled manner as the rat feels comfortable. This training helps my rats become better socialized with other animals they may meet in their future homes.

My rats are fed the best quality foods. Their diet is based on a combination of Harlan Teklad lab blocks, which are available at all times. In the morning each cage receives the "Suebee Diet" mix. This mix is made from all natural ingredients and contains no additional colors, sugar, or corn. It is composed of grains, pasta, natural cereals, seeds, and fruits. They are free to munch on this mix throughout the day, but only receive a set amount in the morning. In the evening they are fed a dinner of fresh produce, tofu, and yogurt. The fruits and vegetables are varied from day to day to ensure maximum nutritional benefit and include apples, melon, kale, spinach, collard greens, grapes, berries, and other produce. Pregnant and nursing mothers and their growing babies are also supplemented with kitten milk replacement (KMR) formula or soy milk.

In addition to good care and breeding, proper quarantine is essential. I have a separate quarantine home set up for just such occasions. New rats and rats going to shows are quarantined a minimum of 3-4 weeks before entering the rattery. This allows me to make sure these rats are healthy before introducing or reuniting them to the rest of my colony, or exposing other rats to them as is the case with shows. My quarantine home is provided with cages, food, bedding, toys, and all other necessary supplies. I regularly visit my babies in their quarantine home, and then put myself through quarantine before going back home to the rattery. My quarantine consists of staying away from all rats for at least thre hours after visiting, washing, and changing clothes, to ensure nothing is transferred between groups. This is a practice that should be followed by all people who are either showing or bringing new rats home.

When adopting rats from me or visiting I ask that people also go through quarantine. Do not visit any pet stores on the day you will be coming to the rattery, make sure you wash and wear clean clothes after playing with any rats you have at home, and be sure to stay away from your rats for at least two to three hours before visiting my rattery. If you are adopting rats from me and already have rats at home, please quarantine my rats before introducing them to your established rats. Proper quarantine consists of housing the rats in rooms or buildings with separate air flows. If you do not have a separate building to house your new rats in, you should find a friend or family member who can quarantine for you. You must also make sure you wash and change clothes between visiting rats and stay away for two to three hours between groups. This time allows any viruses or bacteria on your skin, clothing, or hair to die. Blowing your nose a couple times in between groups can also help to remove any viruses that may be clinging to the moist environment in your nasal passages. Quarantine should be done for a minimum of three to four weeks. These precautions are important to prevent the unintentional and accidental spread of disease or parasites and is important to the health and safety of our beloved pets. I appreciate your consideration and respect when you follow these measures.