BWR Rat Care

Rats are amazing animals and make excellent pets. They are friendly and extremely intelligent. Like dogs, rats can be taught tricks, with proper training. Unfortunately, there are many misconceptions about rats. They are often described as dirty, vicious beasts who spread disease. Quite the opposite, rats are very clean. Many rats will actually choose one corner in their cage to use as a toilet, or can even be litter trained. Since most pet rats are kept indoors, it is extremely unlikely one will ever come into contact with rabies or other diseases. There is a much greater chance for a pet dog or cat to carry and spread disease than for a rat. Rats are easy to care for too, similar to a cat or dog. A well bred, well cared for rat can also be quite hardy. Fancy rats, more commonly known as pet rats, are not wild rats. Pet rats are descended from wild rats, as dogs are descended from wolves, but through selective breeding our pets have become fully domesticated. Pet rats come in a variety of colors, markings, and even body and fur types. Wild rats are not friendly to people and have a stronger "flight or fight" instinct. Domestic rats are very friendly, and even most unfriendly domestic rats can be tamed. Domestic rats rarely bite if properly socialized.

Supplies and Housing

Wire cages are by far superior to aquariums when housing rats. Wire cages not only provide better ventilation, but are often larger and easier to make into an enjoyable rat home. In wire cages, it is possible to hang branches or perches, toys, hammocks, and other items from the top and sides, which then provide the rats more stimuli and exercise. Although larger aquariums can be used to house rats, they should also be cleaned out nd disinfected often to prevent ammonia smell from urine from building up to unbearable levels. A wire top must also be fastened down to prevent the rats from learning they can simply lift it up and jump out for an adventure. Rats must be housed with a bedding. Two of the more common bedding available in most stores are cedar and pine shavings. Both of these, however, are extremely toxic to small animals. The natural oils in these woods cause respiratory problems. In addition, they have been shown to cause liver disease. Aspen, however, is safe. Paper-based beddings such as CareFresh or Yesterday News are also good to use. Other alternatives include alfalfa pellets or corn cob bedding. Some people use towels to house their rats on, which can be changed daily and washed in the washing machine. Rats are extremely playful, so toys are a must. A large variety of toys are available for small animals. Many ferret and bird toys are suitable for rats, as well as some cat toys. When choosing toys, check them over very closely. There should not be any holes where a rat foot or head can easily be caught. Rats do chew, so the toys should be durable and safe. Rolling balls (made for ferrets and cats) are often enjoyed by young rats. Empty toilet paper and paper towel rolls also make great toys. Exercise wheels can be used, but most rats do not use or enjoy these. In wire cages, wooden bird perches and ladders can make good additions. As with any pet, a rat does need food and water bowls. The food bowls should be sturdy and well made. They should be heavy enough for the rat to sit on the edge without tipping it over, and should be made of a durable material that cannot easily be chewed. Heavy plastic and ceramic bowls are available. Other feeders are made of metal and can be hung in the cage. Water is best if kept in a bottle. Bowls are too easily soiled and spilled. Some rats do enjoy swimming on warm days, so a shallow bowl with some water can be provided in addition to a bottle. The bottle should be hung so the nozzle can easily be reached by the rat.

Food

Many people use a commercial grain mix as a rat’s main staple. Unfortunately most commercial foods are unhealthy. They do contain high amounts of dried corn, which is known to carry a fungus harmful to rats, and alfalfa pellets which rats are unable to digest. These foods also tend to have high amounts of seeds and nuts, along with animal-grade peanuts, which like corn can contain harmful fungi. When looking for a commercial food, ask other rat owners what they use. Most pet store employees will not know the differences between foods nor will know the nutritional needs of rats. As a general guide, try to avoid foods containing corn and alfalfa pellets. Rather than commercial grain mixes, “lab blocks” are a great alternative. These are formulated specifically for rats and are a complete nutrition. As such, the rats eat less, therefore saving you money. There are several brands, including Tekland and Mazuri. Among these brands there may be different varieties, such as general maintenance and breeding formulas. When purchasing, make sure you get the proper formula for your rats. Your average pet rat should be fed the general maintenance formula. If you choose to feed lab blocks, a lab block holder can help prevent the blocks from being buried and soiled. Fruits and vegetables are excellent foods for rats. These should be clean and seeded before being given to your rat. Some fruits and vegetables will also need to be peeled or cooked. Citrus fruits should be avoided. After the rat is done eating, uneaten portions of fresh foods should be removed to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. Almost all rats love bread. White breads should be avoided, while wheat bread, especially whole grain bread, is healthier. As an occasional treat, raisin bread can also be given. The bread must not be moldy, though. Some rats also like pasta. This can be fed dry or cooked. No seasonings, sauce, or salt can be added though. If the rat's diet is otherwise balanced, it may never need meat. However, occasional treats are ok. No sauce, seasonings, spices, or salts should be added. Uneaten portions must be removed quickly to prevent bacterial or fungal growth. Meat bones are also great for gnawing, and the rats often enjoy chewing off the last remaining pieces of meat and eating the marrow inside. Dairy is not needed by most rats, and should never be fed in large amounts. Contrary to popular belief, many rats do not like cheese. In addition, cheese can cause gas and diarrhea. Yogurt is, however safe, and makes a nice treat occasionally. Bread soaked in milk is often an ok treat. Yogurt drops are often available in pet stores are a great treat for rats. Supplements are almost never needed, if the rat is on a balanced diet. Only multi-vitamin diets formulated for rats should be used. This is usually bought in a liquid form and added to the water.

Health

Rats are prone to some diseases, such as tumors, especially mammary tumors, and respiratory illness, usually a flare up of mycoplasma which can progress to pneumonia. Rats can also become ill from certain strains of strep. These diseases can be fatal for rats, so it is very important to have a qualified, preferably experienced, veterinarian to treat your rats should they become ill. It is even more important to find this vet before the rats become sick. Most animals are known to hide their illness when they become ill. For this reason, it is extremely important to know your rat's personality characteristics. If the rat is not acting like itself, then it may be ill. In addition, symptoms can include, but are not limited to: sneezing, coughing, wheezing, noisy breathing/clicking, lack of appetite, dehydration, weight loss, lack of condition, dry and brittle fur or skin, unusual lethargy, puffed fur, hunched position, diarrhea, squinty or closed eyes, and excessive red “bloody” discharge (called porphyrin, which is not really blood) from eyes and nose. If your rat exhibits any of these signs, please seek help immediately. A healthy rat can live for 2 to 3 years, sometimes more. Illness can dramatically decrease a rat's life span. Tumors are quite common in rats. Rats are most likely to develop tumors after the age of 2 years. Some tumors can be removed, but surgery can put a lot of stress on the rat, and the tumor may grow back. Before making the decision to remove a tumor, the rat is healthy. A sickly rat is more likely to succumb to complications during surgery than a healthy rat. Benign tumors are the most common. These are harmless and can usually be identified as a soft, squishy, movable bump that is not painful and is not attached to any organs. Rats can develop malignant tumors too. These are harmful, and may be cancerous. They tend to be hard to the touch, cannot be moved, and may be attached to organs. Once of the more common diseases rats face is mycoplasma, which is said to be present in the nasal passages of all rats except some laboratory rats, but does not affect the rat unless its immune system is stressed. To ensure the health of the rat's immune system, it must be kept on proper bedding. Pine and Cedar shavings should not be used with small animals. The oils in these woods can be extremely harmful, and have shown to not only cause respiratory stress, but have also caused liver disease. Proper ventilation is necessary. Rats can be kept in aquariums, but these aquariums must be kept clean because they do not offer the same ventilation wire cages do, and therefore allow ammonia from urine to build up. Rats should be kept away from temperature extremes, as well as sudden temperature changes. Vents and open windows can allow chilly drafts to come in, which can stress a rat. Most rats prefer an average temperature of between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The maximum should be no higher than 80 to 85 degrees. To prevent illness, a rat's home must also be kept clean, bedding should be cleaned out at least once a week. Following proper quarantine procedures will also ensure the health of your rat. Younger, older, and previously ill rats are particularly susceptible to disease. Should a rat become ill due to a respiratory disease, it should be treated by a veterinarian immediately. A veterinarian can prescribe an antibiotic such as Baytril, Amoxillin, or Clavamox. If left untreated, the disease can progress to pneumonia, which is hard to treat and often fatal. Keep your cage clean, as this helps a rat recover from respiratory illness. Steam baths and humidifiers can help to clear blocked air passages. Megacolon is another disease rats can suffer from. A rat who has megacolon was born with the condition. There is strong evidence this disease is genetic, and can be inherited from two rats who do not show symptoms of megacolon. For this reason, it is very important to know where the rats come from and their family history before even thinking about breeding them. Megacolon is a very serious and often fatal disease. Some rats with megacolon will die shortly after birth. Some will show no signs until they start to wean themselves at about 4 to 6 weeks of age. As they start to eat solid foods, their bellies will begin to bloat. This happens because the rat lacks certain nerves in its intestines, and so food and wastes cannot be passed. If a rat is not euthanized, there is risk of the belly become so large that the intestines will rupture, causing a painful death for the rat. Sometimes there will be so much waste products built up, that the rat will be able to release it as one big mass of watery diarrhea. There is no cure for megacolon, but there are possible treatments. Unfortunately the treatment is not always effective, and the rat can still die a painful death. Like most animals, rats do face occasional injuries. Most non-serious injuries do not need treatment, but must be kept clean. Small cuts and scrapes should be immediately cleaned with warm water, and kept clean. Neosporin or Betadine can be used to help prevent infection. Bleeding from these injuries can be stopped with clotting agents, such as Kwik Stop. If you don’t have these available, normal cooking flour is an alternative. Serious cuts and scrapes should be seen by a veterinarian. Broken bones usually can heal by themselves, as long as the rat is kept quiet so it can allow the bone to mend itself. Rats are so small, a vet is usually unable to do anything about a broken bone, but just in case, it is a good idea to take the rat in anyways. Rats can also get abscesses. These should be seen by a veterinarian so it can be drained and appropriate antibiotics administered. Rats do not handle hot temperature extremes very well, and are prone to heat exhaustion. The best way to cure this is to prevent it. Keep rats out of direct sunlight and away from windows. Also make sure they have plenty of water. Try to keep the rats quiet on hot days. A rat suffering from heat exhaustion is usually inactive, stretched out, does not respond, and panting or breathing quickly. A rat showing these symptoms should be moved to a cool area immediately. The rat should also be taken to a veterinarian. If a vet is not immediately available, keep the rat in a cool area. If air conditioning is unavailable, a fan is a must. A shallow dish with about an inch of water can be provided as well, since some rats do like to go swimming. Plastic soda bottles can be filled with water and frozen overnight to provide a cool place for the rat to rest near. A rat's teeth do grow continuously. To prevent overgrown teeth, a rat should be providing with material to gnaw on. A proper diet should keep a rat’s teeth in good shape. Overgrown teeth can be painful and make it hard for the rat to eat. In addition, overgrown teeth can grow into the jaws of the rat. A rat with overgrown teeth must be taken to a veterinarian to have the teeth clipped. Only a vet should do this. Due to the fact disease can be so dangerous for rats, it is important to quarantine before introducing a new rat to resident rats. Preferably, the quarantined animal(s) should be in a completely different building. However, such a set up is not possible for everyone. So, making the best of what is available, the quarantined animal must at least be in a different room on the other side of the building. Be sure to wash your hands after handling the quarantined rat, and if possible, change your clothes. This helps to prevent any disease from passing to the resident rats. In addition, the new rat must be quarantined for at least three weeks.

Handling

Rats need careful handling just like any other animal. A rat should never be picked up by its tail. This can damage not only the spine, but the tail itself. The tail, when grasped, can be degloved, in other words the skin comes off. The skin cannot be replaced, so the tail must then be amputated to prevent infection. The tail is very important to rats. It helps aid them in balancing, it also helps them regulate their temperature. A rat should instead be picked up by its body, similar to the way a cat would be picked up. One hand should be used to go under the rat and pick it up, the other hand used to support its weight. Once off the ground, the rat can either stand on the hand, or be placed on a shoulder or in a lap. Rats should not be allowed to travel in a car loose. Instead, they should be placed in a carry box during trips. It can be a simple cardboard box, or it can be a special carry box. Any carrier designed for other animals should be inspected closely to ensure that it will not allow the rat to escape. While traveling in a hot weather, air conditioning is a must. Rats can overheat easily, which can result in death.

Selecting a Rat

One of the more important decisions when buying a rat is choosing where to buy the rat. Many people buy rats from pet stores. Although this is an easy way to acquire an animal, it is not always the best source. Very few pet stores actually take good care of all their animals, make sure the people buying know how to care for the animals, and make their profit off pet supplies not the animals themselves. Most pet stores sell "feeder rats" and as such treat them like disposable objects. Rats set aside as pets are often the same rats as the feeders, but in prettier colors or with a higher price tag. Pet store animals are usually not hand-tamed, or well socialized, and often take some time to settle down once in their new home. There is absolutely no guarantee on health. Pet store rats are often bred without discrimination. As a result they may have a very weak immune system, or can be very prone to tumors. If a pet store is the only place to buy rats, one must look at all the animals in the store. The animals should be in clean cages, appear to be healthy, have food and water, and should have the proper food and bedding. The employees should also be interviewed and should be knowledgeable about the animals, and willing to answer any and all questions. A breeder is one of the best sources for rats. However, this does not mean all breeders are responsible or care for the animals properly. Just like pet store employees, breeders should be interviewed. They should be extremely knowledgeable and should be striving to improve their rats, rather than just breeding to make more. Good breeders should only breed the healthiest and friendliest rats. If possible, you should make a visit to a breeder’s home and see how their animals are kept. Unfortunately many breeders do not allow people into their rattery, due to the risk of spreading disease. Rescues are another place to find rats. These rats sometimes come with behavioral or health problems due to neglect or abuse in their previous homes. With special care and attention, they can become the friendliest, most loving of pet rats. Also by bringing home a rat from a rescue, one will be saving a life. A good rescue should be able to help match up the right animal, and many rescues foster their animals in good homes so they will be friendly and tame when adopted into a permanent home. After deciding where to buy a pet, you must decide if you want a male or a female. Both make equally nice pets. One of each should not be purchased and expected to live together. This will result in many unwanted, unplanned for pregnancies, and could result in unintended neglect or death of any of the two parent rats or the babies. Males and females kept in the same household should be housed separately, unless one or both are neutered. Both males and females are friendly, can be taught tricks, and are equally easy to care for. Another decision to make is age. Younger rats have a longer time to live with you, and are often more playful. Older rats will have a shorter time with their new owner, but can also be calmer and more willing to sit still to be a lap pet. Both older and younger rats can be taught tricks, and are equally likely to be friendly. Many people do prefer younger rats, but grown rats are just as deserving of good homes. Rats come in a variety of colors and markings, as well as coat and ear variations. Rats can have rexed fur and dumbo ears. There are also manx and hairless rats. There should be no difference in temperament between these variations, so the preference is merely cosmetic.

Breeding

Breeding any animal is a potentially very expensive venture. It takes a lot of hard work, time, and energy and may not provide you with a financial return. There are many considerations to make: start-up costs and supplies, food and diet, selecting suitable breeding rats, understanding genetics, awareness of your goals as a breeder, understanding how to improve on rats as a whole through your breeding practices, and more. This is beyond the scope of this article. More information will be available in another article. If you are interested in breeding, please contact reputable breeders in your area and look for a mentor. Mentoring is the best way to start out in the breeding world, and an excellent way to learn with the help of someone more experienced.

Additional Information
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